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Just behind airport, offers intricate medieval architecture, waterside dining and a busy market, from the mainland across two interlinked islands. Occupying the middle one of Trogir itself, the entire historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a testament to its heavyweight cultural importance.
Two yacht marinas accommodate higher-spending visitors while a younger crowd hits the seafront nightspots of adjoining Čiovo island. Don ’ t expect the manic bustle of nearby – nor overbearing hordes in summer.RECOMMENDED:Done something on this list and loved it? Share it with the hashtag #TimeOutDoList and tag @TimeOutEverywhere.You can also find out more about, or take a look at our list of the. Referred to, somewhat mysteriously, as Master Radovan, the locally born creator of the soaring cathedral that dominates Trogir ’ s historic centre made sure later generations would know when he worked on it. Little else is known about this master craftsman – it ’ s not even certain he was from Trogir, although historical documents hint to the fact – but his carving of ‘1240’ decorates the ornate main west portal. Triple nave, vestibule and sacristy all came later, 300 years later, giving this national treasure a more Gothic appearance than its previous Romanesque style.
Radovan and his contemporaries also fashioned the bizarre creatures around the doorposts, and scenes of Christ. Attracting tourists with its blackboard boast of ‘free grappa’, popular delivers on that promise and then some. Shot glasses of grappa come round on a little tray, signalled by the tinkling of a bell that has a Pavlov’s dog effect on diners, who neck the offering then sway around for selfies and social media postings. As the local regulars are well versed in this ritual, the Škrapa Facebook page more resembles a student party to which old Balkan folk have been invited for reasons unknown. Almost ignored in all the merriment is the food – which is a shame, because it’s great.
Honest, affordable, homely Dalmatian classics are served on red-and-white checked tablecloths, grilled fish and meats prepared with the standard trimmings. All takes place in a suitably rustic interior and handy terrace. Of the 30 sites visited by the long-established nearly half are found around the nearby island of Šolta. This is significant as for decades, Šolta was under military protection and diving was prohibited. As well as providing a valuable cottage industry for Šolta, the abundant coral and sponges now offer divers a rich diversity of flora and fauna to explore, along with conger eels, octopuses and lobsters. The plethora of local sites also allows the Čiovo-based centre to organise trips for all levels.
For beginners, tuition can start with the popular Discover Scuba Dive programme. Standing guard over the south-west corner of Trogir island, Kamerlengo was built by the Venetians in the 1400s after the conquest of Constantinople and the increasing threat from the Turks. Given its potential importance, Kamerlengo is surprisingly small, but ascending it gives superb views of Trogir’s watery surroundings – you half-expect to see Ottoman ships come sailing up the channel that separates Čiovo from the mainland. Looking back, you also get a wonderful panorama of Trogir ’s historic centre, spikes of medieval church towers allowing you to establish your bearings. Kamerlengo is used in summer for outdoor shows and performances, even open-air cinema screenings. Hands-down best hotel in town is the the kind of place with a concierge and 24-hour room service. Family-run, this four-star has that individual touch that some of the upscale chains in nearby Split might lack.
All 36 rooms and suites have sea-view balconies from this vantage point overlooking Trogir from the Čiovo waterfront, air-con and fast internet access a given. The in-house Prestige Spa centre offers an encyclopaedic list of treatments and therapies – lava-shell massage, whole-body peeling, eyebrow colouring – and the restaurant is first-class. The main feature of the mainland part of Trogir, apart from the bus station alongside, the town’s market always seems to be operational.
Stalls set up early and close late, activity near constant. Most of the space is taken up by what Croatians refer to as a green market, ie produce, but here you’ll also find honeys, wines, olive oils and rakija grappas amid the pyramids of bright red tomatoes and vast melons. Tucked a little inland, a red-tiled brick building houses the early-opening fish market, browsing here always an education in Adriatic ichthyology. With the large branch of Konzum alongside, those self-catering here can arrange themselves a fish supper with all the trimmings. Many visit Trogir, stroll its tightly clustered historic streets and perhaps hop across the bridge to the nearest waterfront at Čiovo.
They’re missing out – there’s much more to Čiovo than a couple of marinas. In fact, there’s a whole other scene on the south side of the island, most notably at, a beach club-cum-cocktail bar at Labadusa, past Okrug Gornji. Occupying a square kilometre of idyllic, sea-facing space, Laganini comprises a massage area with facial, foot, hand and all-body treatments, a beach with luxury loungers and day beds, and a cocktail bar whose signature mix involves elderflower and crushed raspberries. There’s a kitchen too, and the bread is baked on the premises.
All is a reasonably priced taxi journey from Trogir, or there are various levels of lodging, from camping to pool-equipped airbnb accommodation, nearby. Trogir is not Dubrovnik but it can offer a pricier dining experience in convivially historic surroundings where you won’t begrudge the extra few kunas on the bill because it was worth it.
In the heart of the Old Town, its spacious, low-walled courtyard ringed by stone-built houses while open to the skies of a summer evening, Kamerlengo barbecues its meat just right and grills its fish and seafood to perfection. Waitstaff know the difference between attentive and pushy – for many of your fellow diners, this will be a repeat visit. Across Trogir Bridge by the North Gate, the Garagnin-Fanfogna Palace conceals a bizarre cornucopia of historic treasure. This is not just because it houses on the first floor, its permanent display somewhat underwhelming considering the comings and goings of Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Napoleonic forces and Habsburgs here over the centuries. Those keen to find out more about Trogir should browse the old library founded by Ivan Luka Garagnin, former Archbishop of Split and a keen coin collector from the mid 1700s, whose collection of literary portraits still hangs in the late Baroque wing of the building. Elsewhere in the palace, the lapidarium contains examples of masonry from the early Christian period, and a separate gallery stages temporary exhibitions. Right on Radovanov trg within earshot of the Cathedral bells, Smokvica is a simple place that seems to do everything right.
Location, of course, is a given, and the courtyard terrace allows both shade and sun depending on time of day. Staff serve with a smile and, at the end, with a bill you won’t have to query – some customers may be nursing overpriced hangovers after a previous night at the cocktail bars on the Riva waterfront. The coffee is first-rate, and there’s a modest selection of juices too. Don’t expect a range of fresh pastries but no-one will bat an eyelid if you’re sat outside with something from the nearby bakery. After dark, Smokvica also operates as a bar, pleasant, with few frills. Hidden for more than 2,000 years, a relief of the Greek symbol of opportunity, Kairos, was uncovered by chance in 1928.
Carved in marble around the third century BC, it had been tucked away in the treasury of the convent of St Nicholas, founded in 1064. The figure best illustrates the concept of Kairos, linked to chronos, but more describing its fleeting aspect, of a chance to be seized. Here, he has his arms outstretched as if to capture a moment sure to fly past. Its creator is said to have modelled Kairos on the works of Lysippos, personal sculptor to Alexander the Great.
The convent is adjoined to St Nicholas church, close to Čiovo Bridge. One of Trogir’s finest traditional taverns, prides itself on the fine sauces it ladles over its tasty seafood and grilled meats, not to mention pasta. Some shellfish – mussels, clams, scampi – are prepared in wine sauce, buzara -style, but to enjoy the full Toma experience, order the beef steak in mushroom sauce or set aside the shrimp sauce in you prefer your shellfish grilled. The equally exemplary pašticada beef stew comes with own-made gnocchi. All takes place on split-level terraces, the elevated one made for sunset. Afterwards, you can walk off your dinner with a browse around the nearby late-opening market. Haunting, evocative and melodic, klapa is, for want of an easier analogy, Dalmatian barbershop.
A four-man group, usually in traditional dress, gathers in a semi-circle, two tenors, a bass and a baritone, to offer harmonious paeans to the Adriatic, to wine and to the land they long for when far out to sea. Traditionally a cappella, klapa has undergone a revival and is now performed with occasional instrumental accompaniment, even in larger groups, in concert halls. Here in Trogir, you should find the real deal on summer evenings in the courtyard of the Garagnin-Fanfogna Palace, scheduled concerts advertised around town.
Located in the centre of Trogir, just 200 metres from its UNESCO-protected Old Town, Hostel Trogir offers beds in air-conditioned dormitories. Free Wi-Fi access is available and the nearest beach is 400 metres away.Guests have access to shared bathrooms, as well as a common fully-equipped kitchen. A shared lounge area with a TV is also available. The hostel is surrounded with a garden and offers a spacious common terrace. Trogir Hostel also helps organise excursions and tours.A grocery shop is 50 metres away, while the nearest bar and restaurant can be found within 150 metres. The green and fish market is located at a distance of 300 metres.The Main Bus Station is about 900 metres away and Split Airport can be reached within 5.5 km.
Hotel Trogir is a family-run hotel located in the very centre of Trogir, only 4 km from Split airport, in a completely renovated building over 2 centuries old. Besides modernly equipped, air conditioned rooms and an apartment, the hotel offers you the finest Dalmatian, Croatian and world specialties with a rich selection of Croatian and world wines served in the outdoor restaurant. Grilled fish and meat combine with home-made olive oil giving you the opportunity to taste Dalmatia's finest cuisine.
Apartment Trogir 6 offers accommodation in Trogir. The property is 300 metres from Park Eks Fanfogna and free private parking is featured. Free WiFi is available throughout the property.The air-conditioned unit is fitted with a kitchen. A TV is provided. Other facilities at Apartment Trogir 6 include a seasonal outdoor pool.Trogir Bus Station is 400 metres from Apartment Trogir 6, while Trogir Green Market is 500 metres from the property.
The nearest airport is Split Airport, 4 km from the property. Apartment Trogir 1 offers accommodation in Trogir. The air-conditioned unit is 300 metres from Park Eks Fanfogna, and guests benefit from free WiFi and private parking available on site.The kitchen has an oven and there is a private bathroom.
A TV is provided. Other facilities at Apartment Trogir 1 include a seasonal outdoor pool.Trogir Bus Station is 400 metres from Apartment Trogir 1, while Trogir Green Market is 500 metres from the property. The nearest airport is Split Airport, 4 km from Apartment Trogir 1. Located 300 metres from Park Eks Fanfogna and 400 metres from Trogir Bus Station, Apartment Trogir 5 offers accommodation in Trogir. The air-conditioned unit is 500 metres from Trogir Green Market. Free private parking is available on site.An oven and a microwave can be found in the kitchen.
A TV is offered. Other facilities at Apartment Trogir 5 include a seasonal outdoor pool. The apartment features free WiFi throughout the property.Radovan's Portal is 500 metres from Apartment Trogir 5, while Trogir Town Museum is 500 metres away.
Split Airport is 4 km from the property. Holiday home Trogir 3 offers accommodation in Trogir, 700 metres from Trogir Bus Station.
The holiday home has air conditioning and free WiFi. Free private parking is available on site.The holiday home is composed of 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom, equipped with a bath or shower. A refrigerator and a stovetop can be found in the kitchen. A TV is provided.Park Eks Fanfogna is 700 metres from Holiday home Trogir 3, while The Cathedral of St. Lawrence is 800 metres away. Split Airport is 4 km from the property.